Autumn weekends at high altitude, when the weather allows, provide by far the best views of the year. Maria and myself discovered this already a couple of years ago, when we unexpectedly found amazing weather and incredible colors while visiting Livigno on an autumn weekend (blog post here). Since then, we have been longing for this time of the year, eagerly monitoring the forecast, looking for pockets of high pressure passing over the Alps.
This year is no exception, and once again – for the third year in a row – as soon as the good weather arrives we book our stay in Livigno and plan the logistics. Maria is as always amazing, as she finds a way to get to Livigno from Basel all alone, hopping on several trains and buses and getting there way before I do.
We plan two days out mountain biking on routes leaving and arriving in Livigno, so we do not have to pick up the car and drive. We choose two of the most renowned trails in the region, here you will find a description of the first one!
Once again, our choice is fulfilling and rewarding, as I hope the following pictures will tell.
Photostory
Day 1 – Livigno – Alpisella – Cancano – Val Trela – Livigno
This is one of the most famous trails in the region and for many good reasons: it offers magnificent views on towering mountain peaks, glaciers and lakes, and it is just perfect for a day trip including a yummy lunch break in one of the mountain huts on the shores of Cancano lake. It does require some fitness to climb the two ascents of approximately 500 meters each (and many choose e-bikes to make it more enjoyable), but then the descents reward the effort, being fast, flowy and fun to ride whilst never being technical or dangerous.
We leave early, as we do not want to rush. The morning weather is already amazing, with cloudless skies and fresh air…well, very fresh! Autumn mornings at 1800 meters easily provide below zero temperatures, and our nostrils get frozen in no time. We head towards the Livigno lake, from where we will begin our climb towards the Alpisella pass (2300 meters).
The ascent to Alpisella Pass is all on a winding gravel fire road, wide enough to ride one beside another, and in the beginning the climb is gentle. Soon enough, however, the gradient increases and we have to remove our outer layers despite the chilly mountain air.
Taking it easy, after one and half hours we surpass the no-tree line and reach the pass. All around us, the nature is pristine and wild: we are in the Stelvio National Park, a wide protected area spreading between the Italian regions of Lombardia and Trentino. The Alpisella valley carves a passage between Livigno and the ghost town of San Giacomo di Fraele, a small village that was flooded awhile ago to allow two artificial lakes (Cancano Lakes), providing waters to a hydroelectric power plant located in the valley down below.
From here, it is all downhill to get to the lakes. We can choose between following the gravel road or a single track to the left of the valley. Needless to say, we opt for the latter!
The trail has a lot of flow and can be ridden at high speeds; however, it is impossible not to stop everynow and then to observe the majestic views of the Stelvio park. The combination of colors is truly postcard-like: the green pine forest contrast to the yellow larches, and the deep blue of the sky provides the perfect backdrop to the rocky mountaintops and white glaciers.
During our climb, we met a couple of Finnish bikers riding the same route. One of them, Mika, is a hell of a photographer and rewards us with this beautiful shot:
We shortly reach the lakes. Here, a gravel road easily takes us along the shores of the lake and to our destination for lunch: Rifugio San Giacomo di Fraele.
Our lunch is excellent and filling….which makes it difficult to go back riding and tackle the steep ascent awaiting us. All the wine and grappa immediately clog my legs, and Maria easily overtakes me as she steadily climbs towards the tallest point of the day – the Trela pass, at 2330 meters.
We finally reach the mountain pass, and it is a relief that we only have descent ahead of us…we have been out for 6 hours already and the thought of realxing in a bar with a beer and music becomes more and more tempting.
The downhill from here is just amazing. It is an easy single track with a lot of flow, and it is just endless. It can be ridden at mind boggling speeds and provides a lot of fun with its corners and bumps!
Finally, we reach the bottom of the valley, and proceed towards Livigno just when the sun is about to set behind the high peaks surrounding these valleys.
Finally, we glimpse Lake Livigno, our starting point for the day. The trail is now complete, and we can reach the town to celebrate this fantastic day out in the mountains!
Map and Stats
Max elevation: 2333 m
Total climbing: 1288 m
Video
Relive ‘Livigno – Alpisella – Cancano – Val Trela’